Something More

The ghost of parties past runs rampant through the alleys and beaches of Koh Phangan. If Koh Tao is known for diving and early bed times, Koh Phangan is her evil, tie-dyed, tranced out step sister. Though the island was dead while we were there, one does not have to look hard to see the traces of what was and what will be again when the moon grows full later in the month. Started in 1987 as a birthday party and continued on month after month, Koh Phangan, like Goa in India, became home to the wandering fire throwing barefoot children that stumble into South East Asia in search of something more. And this island is set up to receive, full of guest houses, tattoo parlors, and shops bursting with island wear and liquor. The sunlight hours are usually meant for laying on the sand, sleeping off last night's party, and filling yourself full of fruit shakes and fried rice. When the sun goes down, the beach opens for business. Shacks offering buckets full of the alcohol and mixer of your choice line the sand, only to be interrupted by sound systems and DJ boothes. At its height, 30,000 cram the beach dancing, drinking, melting into the music. Trim Thai men twist fire sticks, fearlessly tossing them behind their backs for no more than a whoop from the crowd. When the crowd tires of this spectacle, they set up limbo, every kid's favorite challenge. But alas this limbo stick is on fire and only the drunk or brave dare to bend their bodies below the leaping flames. During the hours when you're not sure whether to sleep, drink, or dance, most local restaurants show daily movies or reruns of Friends and Family Guy.

Since the moon is currently waning before it will wax once again, the island is mellow. Games of beach volleyball still take place every afternoon and the snorkling is amazing if you wake early enough. The water is crystal clear and the days hot as the island waits for the moon.

To see photos of Koh Phangan, please click me