The Red Center

Australia's Red Center is totally worth it. The nature is superb--this is the Australia of my imagination. Burnt red rock and soil color the landscape. Shocking blue skies meet surprisingly green trees and bush. If you have the patience to withstand the heat and the flies, the region offers some truly beautiful nature and abundant wildlife. The MacDonnels, a lengthy mountain range that bookends Alice Springs, is best known for the sights in the Western ranges. Gorges, gaps and chasms abound creating natural habitats for black footed rock wallabies and many birds of prey, including wedged tail eagles. Kings Canyon, south and west of Alice Springs, offers a chance to climb rocks overlooking a deep canyon where the earth's shifts are recorded dutifully on the Canyon walls.

After years of living with Mara and having photos of Uluru hang on my walls, I finally had the good fortune to see the great rock with my own two eyes. I expected to be disappointed, seeing that Ayres Rock is after all just a rock. As we approached at sunset, it was clear that there was nothing simple or disappointing to be seen. Massive and varied depending on where you stand and the time of day it is viewed, the rock could quiet even the loudest critic. Aboriginal art, caves and the occasional water hole made walking around parts of the base well worth it. The site is of spiritual importance to the local Aboriginal groups and despite their desire that no one climb the rock, a climb is possible in cooler weather.

Forty-five kilometers west of Uluru, the 36 domes of the Olgas stand in solid challenge to the popularity of Uluru. In truth, the Olgas were beautiful and much more climbable than Uluru. We hiked the Valley of the Winds walk, a trek up red rock face and down green plains, always accompanied by the walks namesake, and our two Czech friends, Micha and Milan. Another 700ks and we slumbered in Coober Pedy, a town that produces 80% of the world's opal and where one third of the town lives underground to escape the heat. Underground hotels, camp sites, bars, businesses, and even churches exist under the city's cover.

Not yet out of the Outback, we spent two days in the Flinders Ranges, a 400k long range. We spent our time in the Central Ranges, best known for the Wilpena Pound, a huge circular range surrounding flat bush. As we drove through the camp on our first night, we stopped in front a big tent with a couple sitting in front of it, enjoying a few beers as kangaroos quietly chowing down on the grass around their tent. We threw the car in park, grabbed the camera and went at photographing these friendly creatures. We ended up pulling up a few chairs, sharing the sunset and a few beers with this friendly Aussie couple and a host of kangas. Andy and Angela, our new friends, were really nice and were the first Aussies who spoke openly about Australia's relationship with the Aboriginal communities around the country. As informative as it was, nothing tops drinking beers with kangaroos.

After a few chilly nights of good sleep in the Flinders, we headed south and out of the Outback. Just past Port Augusta we saw the ocean for the first time in two weeks--it was like manna for the eyes after weeks of driving through drab bush. Just as Christmas Eve descended, we arrived in Adelaide in time to check into a hostel, our first stay in a backpackers since Sydney. Clean and full of nice people, we hunkered down to weather Christmas and Boxing Day. Two holidays, one day right after the other--no cinemas, no cafes, no museums. So we ate, slept, read and slept some more. So far, I like Adelaide.

To see photos of Alice Springs and the West MacDonnels, please click me

To see photos of Kings Canyon, please click me

To see photos of Uluru and the Olgas, please click me

To see photos of Coober Pedy, the Flinders Ranges & Adelaide, please click me