New Zealand is renowned for its nature, its laid back lifestyle and its warm people but when you get past Lord of the Rings, most people find New Zealand to be stuck 20 years in the past, in a charming sort of way. One traveler in a guide book remarked, "When I got to New Zealand, I thought it was closed." This is not far from the truth and I think Kiwis rather prefer it this way--a kind of self and state preservation. But there are some things that we have encountered that support the notion of New Zealand being 20 or even 40 years behind.
Glaciers are popular here--one may even say they are New Zealand's "thing", along with fiords, sounds, beaches and forest. So we set out on a famous and much recommended walk to view a glacier, but the walk starts down 30 kilometers of unpaved road where we needed to cross three bodies of unbridged water. Seriously? Pave your roads!
Driving on the North Island, we noticed a sign for a toll road. In the US, this would necessitate a toll booth where you either interact with a living human being or where the fee is electronically charged to a pass each time you enter the road. In New Zealand, the options are 1) prepay the toll online 2) call and pay for the toll within 3 days 3) pull off the road and pay at a machine where traffic officials assist you in the somewhat complicated system. The bugger is that you never enter the toll road--it just is. What?!!
New Zealand is definitely home to the most dramatic scenery I have ever encountered but I have a few suggestions: street lights, two way bridges, and street signs, just to name a few. After tramping uphill for hundreds of kilometers, waiting for the non-stop rain to abate, and surviving the unpaved roads, Oded and I are more than ready for Fiji!
Wednesday, March 18, 2009
Hot Water Beach
All the photos of people on holiday in New Zealand show smiling faces amidst the sand and surf, and seeing as the North Island has actual glimpses of a much missed sun, we headed to Coromandel, a peninsula in the northeast. Full of beautiful bays where the forest meets the beach and awe-inspiring sandstone structures stand solo in the sea, Coromandel is as lovely as it is rumored to be, but its real wonder is not enjoyable during most of the daylight hours. On either side of low tide, which for us was at 6:50 PM, at one beach in one small area, a natural hot spring exists under the sand. Aptly named, Hot Water Beach draws hundreds of people each day at low tide, With spades in hand, groups of people dig out natural hot water pools. As you approach the area, the sand warms your feet with each step until you slowly feel your foot burn and you know you are there--the water gets as hot as 149 degrees Celsius. We learned quickly to dig deep, fortify the walls of our little pool with dry sand, and then just sit and relax. The tide crawled up and over every now and then but the springs were so hot, the cold water was welcome. All in all, good free fun.
Don't Tell My Mom*
In the New Zealand tradition of waiting, Oded and I arrived in Taupo (the center of the North Island) with a long list of things to do and instead of actually doing them, we waited. We waited for the wind to lessen, the clouds to clear, the rain to end, because as we have learned, nothing is worth doing in New Zealand if the weather is not perfect.
First on our list was bungy jumping--my first time and Oded's fourth. Set on the side of a gorgeous rock walled blue-green river, the jumping deck stood 47 meters over the water. After watching a few people get harnessed in and jump, we got in line. As it was my first time, I dove the regular way--arms over my head, head first. I stepped to the edge, looked down, cleared my mind, and opened my eyes. A truly fun feeling of plunging downwards but short lived as the bungy did its job and yanked me back up. Oded, a bungy veteran, having done the third highest bungy in the world (168 meters in Nepal), jumped backwards, the accepted scariest way to do it. On a count of three, he threw himself backwards and plummeted feet first before gravity flipped him over and he fully submerged in the water head first--an awesome sight.
Next on the list--skydiving. Thankfully the wind was too strong for our
first dive time because the morning we actually jumped was cloudless and blue skied--a perfect day. The process is quick--get weighed, get geared up, watch a two minute DVD on what to do and you're in the air with a stranger strapped to your back, at the edge of an airplane door. Again, I cleared my mind but whereas I had to decide to jump at the bungy, my tandem master just rocked me out of the plane and I was rushing toward the ground in a 60 second free fall. With views of Mt. Tongariro, Lake Taupo, and both the east and west coast of the North Island, it was unbelievable. It is an experience without comparison and serious fun. After about a minute, Albert opened the parachute and I went from a rush of wind in my ears to the most complete silence I have ever known. From there we spun and floated our way back to base, taking in the views and the absurdly surreal sense of flying. Oded jumped 30 seconds after me and loved it just as much.
All of these high flying adventures were just stall techniques as we waited for the track to be opened on the Tongariro Crossing, a trek hailed as New Zealand's best day walk. Usually hype oversells things but the Crossing is definitely the best walk I have done in New Zealand. It took us just over 6 hours to walk the 20 kilometers but the track was well built and full of beautiful scenery--volcanic craters of all colors, fresh snow on the mountain tops and emerald lakes with clouds of sulphur rising in the distance. (For followers of Lord of the Rings, this is Mt. Doom.) The walk provided great views at all times, but I have to say that I am not too sad to be done trekking in New Zealand!
*Of course my mom already knows! She was the first one we called after jumping...Doesn't mean she's happy though...:)
First on our list was bungy jumping--my first time and Oded's fourth. Set on the side of a gorgeous rock walled blue-green river, the jumping deck stood 47 meters over the water. After watching a few people get harnessed in and jump, we got in line. As it was my first time, I dove the regular way--arms over my head, head first. I stepped to the edge, looked down, cleared my mind, and opened my eyes. A truly fun feeling of plunging downwards but short lived as the bungy did its job and yanked me back up. Oded, a bungy veteran, having done the third highest bungy in the world (168 meters in Nepal), jumped backwards, the accepted scariest way to do it. On a count of three, he threw himself backwards and plummeted feet first before gravity flipped him over and he fully submerged in the water head first--an awesome sight.
Next on the list--skydiving. Thankfully the wind was too strong for our
first dive time because the morning we actually jumped was cloudless and blue skied--a perfect day. The process is quick--get weighed, get geared up, watch a two minute DVD on what to do and you're in the air with a stranger strapped to your back, at the edge of an airplane door. Again, I cleared my mind but whereas I had to decide to jump at the bungy, my tandem master just rocked me out of the plane and I was rushing toward the ground in a 60 second free fall. With views of Mt. Tongariro, Lake Taupo, and both the east and west coast of the North Island, it was unbelievable. It is an experience without comparison and serious fun. After about a minute, Albert opened the parachute and I went from a rush of wind in my ears to the most complete silence I have ever known. From there we spun and floated our way back to base, taking in the views and the absurdly surreal sense of flying. Oded jumped 30 seconds after me and loved it just as much.All of these high flying adventures were just stall techniques as we waited for the track to be opened on the Tongariro Crossing, a trek hailed as New Zealand's best day walk. Usually hype oversells things but the Crossing is definitely the best walk I have done in New Zealand. It took us just over 6 hours to walk the 20 kilometers but the track was well built and full of beautiful scenery--volcanic craters of all colors, fresh snow on the mountain tops and emerald lakes with clouds of sulphur rising in the distance. (For followers of Lord of the Rings, this is Mt. Doom.) The walk provided great views at all times, but I have to say that I am not too sad to be done trekking in New Zealand!
*Of course my mom already knows! She was the first one we called after jumping...Doesn't mean she's happy though...:)
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