Rain, rain go away

Sihanoukville

Oded and I left Phnom Penh after two days and headed to the beaches of Sihanoukville on the southern coast of Cambodia. The ride there was an experience in itself--the buses are decent and they stop for bathroom breaks and food--all good things. The problems arrive not from the comfort of the seats, but the daring ness of the drivers as they tend to believe they are the only driver on the road despite oncoming motorists and truckers. To avoid collision, the driver just beeps constantly as a way to alert others to move or perhaps because it amuses him. In addition to the beeping, there are the Cambodian programs blasted from the TV at the front of the bus--I am not sure what exactly we watched but I am almost positive that it may have been a torture device at one time. Once the caucophony of noises becomes alost normal, there is ample time to view the countryside. These rides are proof that most of Cambodia is flat and flooded in many areas to make rice paddies--the amount of water and mud is almost unbelievable. We arrived in Sihanoukville at dusk and took motos to the our guest house--the Monkey Republic. Run by Westerners, this is a backpacker mecca--pool tables, free draft beer on arrival, and tons of Aussies, Brits and even some Israelis. We spent two days there in total and about five minutes at the beach--it rained almost the entire time--the kind of rain that wakes you up at night and soaks you in an instant. So we both improved our pool skills, read a lot and made some new friends. All in all, it was very relaxing and a nice excursion out of Cambodia's cities. We spent one more day in Phnom Penh to finalize Oded's Vietnam visa and said goodbye to Cambodia.

...and i arrived!

Bangkok, Thailand

Thirty six hours and three flights and one smiling Oded! Arriving in Bangkok was amazing--seeing Oded after so long was great and weird all in the same moment. After not seeing each other for three and a half months it was hard to get over the fact that we were finally in the same place. I arrived late Tuesday night and we started the day late on Wednesday. I have not yet seen enough of Bangkok to make a real impression, but from what I understand it is a city that caters mainly yo Westerners looking for a good time before heading to the islands. Pad thai is dirt cheap and made on the spot, tuks tuks (moto led carriages) carry you from one place to the next, and everyone wants to tailor a suit for you. A few things of note: the main traveler street is full of Israelis. There is a travel center devoted just to schnitzel and Machina, offering food, internet and storage. The downtown area seems similar to any that we know in the US--stores ranging from Dior to Chloe to Zara with Subway and Starbucks in between. It makes me so aware of globalization and how many cities have begun to lose their identities due to the spread of major companies. I remember being in Spain 7 years ago and seeing Zara and H & M for the first time, long before they were anywhere other than New York. I hope that my second stop in Bangkok in November will shed more light on the city for me.

Siem Reap, Cambodia

The ride from Bangkok to Siem Reap, Cambodia was all but hell and I am told that this is far from the worst. The first 5 hours from Bangkok to the Cambodian border were fast and swirly and made me sick to my stomach but we made it across only to arrive to the dusty, dirty streets of Cambodia. We opted to share a taxi with a Portuguese couple for the last 4 hours to Siem Reap. The ride was mostly on dirt roads that turn to mud each day in the afternoon rain. It is important to know that lanes mean nothing and people find whatever open space on the road and drive (don't be scared Mom!). We arrived in Siem Reap and for $7 we had hot water and a double bed. Thus our Cambodian adventure began...

Angkor Wat, the ruins of many temple capitals, is what attracts most tourists to Cambodia. It is a vast construction of temples, pagodas and entrances built over 500 years during the reigns of different kings. The architecture is hard to fathom and the details engraved on each block even harder. Images of gods, war, water and devotion adorn almost every inch of these still intact stones. The beauty is a true wonder that is unfortunately tempered by exorbitant entrance prices and the constant barrage of Cambodian children selling scarves, book, bracelets and water. They are unrelenting, calling out to you upon sight, and they have an impressive knowledge not only of English and world capitals, but also of math--a knowledge they use to make sure you leave with one less dollar.

Cambodia seems to be a country full of extreme contradictions--one night's stay is $7 and breakfast is half that price. The country is poor--the roads are unpaved yet they are navigated by a surprising number of Lexuses. The landscape is flat and a luscious green thanks to the daily rains--but trash litters the street at every turn and poor are begging at each corner. Gorgeous hotels charging $700 a night line the streets in Siem Reap yet the streets are full of backpackers that are far from the jet set. It is a challenge to understand the economy and the issues at hand here--most people are farmers or live off the land, family is paramount, and food is a huge piece of social connection is Phnom Penh.

To see more photos of Angkor Wat, visit http://picasaweb.google.com/abbey.greenberg/SiemReapCambodia##

Phnom Penh

We spent today at the Killing Fields and S-21, the prison that was used to interrogate and execute thousands of Cambodians under Pol Pot's rule. The Cambodian genocide is a horrifying example of what humanity can achieve when at its worst. The Killing Fields house a monument full of 8,000 skulls and a landscape full of huge divets that once served as mass graves for innocent Cambodians. The S-21 prison, now a museum on genocide, displays torture weapons, photos, and a comprehensive history of the 4 years that Pol Pot ruled Cambodia. The day that we toured these places was intense and overwhelming--it is a true testament that Cambodia displays the worst of their history so that they and the rest of the world never forget what happened here.

The people in Phnom Penh were open and generous, often showing us the way or answering questions. For less than a dollar, we bought a full watermelon from a street market, had it cut up for us, and consumed it there on the street--a perfect treat on a hot day.

Next, we move on to Sihanoukville to visit Cambodia's beaches and national parks...

To see photos of Phnom Penh, visit http://picasaweb.google.com/abbey.greenberg/PhnomPenhCambodia##

3 more days...

My last weekend in Boston is upon me and has fall has arrived in time to grace me with a few days of chilly mornings, breezy afternoons and perfect nights. I have spent more time in EMS and Target than I ever thought possible and I believe I am almost ready to depart...My itinerary is as follows:

September 15 Boston-Bangkok

September 20 Bangkok-Siem Reap, Cambodia

September 28 Vietnam

October 25 Laos

November 1 Chiang Mai, Thailand

November 7 Bangkok-Sydney

January 23 Sydney-Christchurch, NZ

April 7 Auckland, NZ-Fiji

April 15 Fiji-Boston

Please send me emails, stories, and updates as although I am so excited for my adventure, I will miss everyone. Much love.

Boston

I met a guy on the train from Washington to Boston last Saturday. He asked me if I lived in DC and I was unsure of the answer. For the first time in a long time, I don't have an address and I quickly realized that it is not my location that defines me. Or perhaps it is exactly location that defines me and the lack of a permanent address that will redefine me. I no longer have the luxury of telling people what I do or where I live as a way to categorize myself in the world. Instead, I just have me--my experiences, things that I love to do, people that I love to know--just me. It is a crazy and amazing prospect.

I am officially unemployed for the first time since I was 16. I have spent the week roaming around Boston--I spent a day at Revere beach with my brother (family pride), shopped at Whole Foods and REI, and hung out with my folks and after a full week I am left amazed--there are tons of people out during the day! Who knew this other culture of people existed that don't sit indoors all day hooked up to Microsoft Outlook, breathing in and out, in and out. I imagine this is what it would feel like to take a vacation and stay in the town you live in for the week. You begin to see the rhythms of the people who don't leave thier homes for an office every morning--young and old alike. People walking their dogs, sitting in the park, having coffee just for the sake of drinking coffee in the middle of the day. It is luxurious--to observe and to do.

So now I am left with one more week in Boston to see my friends and my family and to buy all of the last minute things that will come in handy in the wilds of who knows where. Today I bought a swiss army knife and a lock. Bear Grylls, here I come.