...and i arrived!

Bangkok, Thailand

Thirty six hours and three flights and one smiling Oded! Arriving in Bangkok was amazing--seeing Oded after so long was great and weird all in the same moment. After not seeing each other for three and a half months it was hard to get over the fact that we were finally in the same place. I arrived late Tuesday night and we started the day late on Wednesday. I have not yet seen enough of Bangkok to make a real impression, but from what I understand it is a city that caters mainly yo Westerners looking for a good time before heading to the islands. Pad thai is dirt cheap and made on the spot, tuks tuks (moto led carriages) carry you from one place to the next, and everyone wants to tailor a suit for you. A few things of note: the main traveler street is full of Israelis. There is a travel center devoted just to schnitzel and Machina, offering food, internet and storage. The downtown area seems similar to any that we know in the US--stores ranging from Dior to Chloe to Zara with Subway and Starbucks in between. It makes me so aware of globalization and how many cities have begun to lose their identities due to the spread of major companies. I remember being in Spain 7 years ago and seeing Zara and H & M for the first time, long before they were anywhere other than New York. I hope that my second stop in Bangkok in November will shed more light on the city for me.

Siem Reap, Cambodia

The ride from Bangkok to Siem Reap, Cambodia was all but hell and I am told that this is far from the worst. The first 5 hours from Bangkok to the Cambodian border were fast and swirly and made me sick to my stomach but we made it across only to arrive to the dusty, dirty streets of Cambodia. We opted to share a taxi with a Portuguese couple for the last 4 hours to Siem Reap. The ride was mostly on dirt roads that turn to mud each day in the afternoon rain. It is important to know that lanes mean nothing and people find whatever open space on the road and drive (don't be scared Mom!). We arrived in Siem Reap and for $7 we had hot water and a double bed. Thus our Cambodian adventure began...

Angkor Wat, the ruins of many temple capitals, is what attracts most tourists to Cambodia. It is a vast construction of temples, pagodas and entrances built over 500 years during the reigns of different kings. The architecture is hard to fathom and the details engraved on each block even harder. Images of gods, war, water and devotion adorn almost every inch of these still intact stones. The beauty is a true wonder that is unfortunately tempered by exorbitant entrance prices and the constant barrage of Cambodian children selling scarves, book, bracelets and water. They are unrelenting, calling out to you upon sight, and they have an impressive knowledge not only of English and world capitals, but also of math--a knowledge they use to make sure you leave with one less dollar.

Cambodia seems to be a country full of extreme contradictions--one night's stay is $7 and breakfast is half that price. The country is poor--the roads are unpaved yet they are navigated by a surprising number of Lexuses. The landscape is flat and a luscious green thanks to the daily rains--but trash litters the street at every turn and poor are begging at each corner. Gorgeous hotels charging $700 a night line the streets in Siem Reap yet the streets are full of backpackers that are far from the jet set. It is a challenge to understand the economy and the issues at hand here--most people are farmers or live off the land, family is paramount, and food is a huge piece of social connection is Phnom Penh.

To see more photos of Angkor Wat, visit http://picasaweb.google.com/abbey.greenberg/SiemReapCambodia##

Phnom Penh

We spent today at the Killing Fields and S-21, the prison that was used to interrogate and execute thousands of Cambodians under Pol Pot's rule. The Cambodian genocide is a horrifying example of what humanity can achieve when at its worst. The Killing Fields house a monument full of 8,000 skulls and a landscape full of huge divets that once served as mass graves for innocent Cambodians. The S-21 prison, now a museum on genocide, displays torture weapons, photos, and a comprehensive history of the 4 years that Pol Pot ruled Cambodia. The day that we toured these places was intense and overwhelming--it is a true testament that Cambodia displays the worst of their history so that they and the rest of the world never forget what happened here.

The people in Phnom Penh were open and generous, often showing us the way or answering questions. For less than a dollar, we bought a full watermelon from a street market, had it cut up for us, and consumed it there on the street--a perfect treat on a hot day.

Next, we move on to Sihanoukville to visit Cambodia's beaches and national parks...

To see photos of Phnom Penh, visit http://picasaweb.google.com/abbey.greenberg/PhnomPenhCambodia##